Jabs and tax, getting ready to leave

Spent today getting ourselves ready to leave Senegal. So we took a trip into Saint Louis to print off some more fiches, get Miki’s rabies booster and passport stamp, get some cash to pay the Zebra bar and treat ourselves to cheeseburgers!

On the way into Saint Louis we had a stroke of bad luck. A Police officer waved us down and asked to see our insurance document. I hand it to him and he says it is invalid. The paper is a one month form (therefore expired two weeks ago) although the dates have been crossed out and re-written for two months. When at the Mauritania Senegal border I bought two months insurance. The lady handed me a one month insurance document. When I told her of her mistake she changed the dates on it to two months. Perhaps I was naive, but I thought that was an acceptable standard for Senegal. The police man would not agree. He suggested I had changed the dates myself. I could go to prison for forgery he said. ‘When are you leaving the country?’ he asks me. ‘In two days’ I reply hopefully. I should not have been so honest. ‘I shall impound the vehicle’ he pauses to let the implications settle, ‘what do you say to that?.’ So fifty euros into his pocket and fifty euros to the Saint Louis insurance brokers and we can move freely again.

Special credit must go to the Zebra bar for the last few days of peace. I have been able to recover from my illness, building my strength. I was also able to repair the truck. The German mechanic who works at the bar had a look over the engine afterwards and declared it fit for the road. Testing it out on the 40km round trip to Saint Louis its gears were working better than I can remember. It has been a good time for Anika too as the Swiss owners of the campsite have given her attention, their young son who she plays with buying her a box of strawberries. Better than roses!


To re-cap on the last few days of silence; we have spent a couple of nights on the near perfect beach of Lompoul, then spent two nights on a dirt road outside Louga. Then we crawled into the Zebra bar where we have been up until now. There are only a few days now till our Mauritania crossing.

So taking the guide in tow, we left Fas Boye and all that craziness behind. I am not sure why the guide came along with us. I did try and shake him off. Since he was unable to guide us through the desert, and took us into that stoked village I did not see how he could remain in the capacity of our ‘guide’, given that there is a tarmac road to Lompoul clearly indicated on my map. Any further services were likely to come at a cost. Still, he remained stubbornly in the passenger seat, wearing an enormous puffer jacket much to large for his small frame, causing him to pour sweat down his face which had large growths like unripened boils hanging from his cheeks. He had a wool hat over which he wore a bright yellow, plastic hard hat. Drawled across the hard hat in clumsy uprights was the acronym WEC. He pointed at it with obvious pride. They may or may not be his employers. Not able to shake him off I decided that he may well want to go to Lompoul. Perhaps he is visiting family there.

We arrived in Lompoul-sur-Mer in the late evening. The village is a typical fishing village with facilities for the fishermen to haul up their boats, mend nets, dry the fish and sell it in a covered market square. Ten kilometers behind us is Lompoul the main village. Both villages are very quiet which is just what we wanted. The people have been very sensitive, cordial greetings but no intrusive curiosity. We parked at the end of the fish drying platform where we were not disturbed.

The next day we got rid of the guide after he asked us for money for cigarettes and phone credit. I had already given him some money for that, the first night we arrived. I suspect that he stood outside our truck all night as he was still in the same spot come early morning, his own cash cow that nobody else was going to milk. I gave him another 500 CFA, handed him his yellow hat and told him to leave.

Our first day is spent playing on the beach, sand castles, leaping over sand ledges, running through the foaming surf. The next day I have to do some vehicle checks, more oil needed, coolant level is low. I discover that the roof rack has near detached from the roof. The impact of the tree in Gambia clipping the rack must have sent a shock wave that snapped all the securing rivets. It has barely holding on with three rivets on one corner. Had it fallen I can not imagine what a catastrophe it would have been. It took a few hours to drill out holes and re-rivet the rack. It is a temporary job that should hold till we are in Europe. Then it will need to be dismantled and rebuilt.

We set off again after a few days as Mara was hoping to Skype family. We needed a good connection. It was late when we set off so we were unable to get further than Kebemer. We camped up just north of the village. Anika and I walked back into town hoping for some food. We had seen a grand looking building advertising pizza and burgers. It looked promising. On arrival however it was pizza in name only. The grand building was someones dream, half finished, the kitchen still waiting to be outfitted. Food (goat) was sizzling on a small grill on the outside patio. We returned to the truck with empty stomachs, which was in hindsight fortunate, my stomach had begun playing up during the day so could benefit from a starve.

The next day we head for Louga, a large dusty town, for a provisions stop. I have diarrhea on the way there. It must have been the rotten meat I have been eating over the past two days. Bought from a road side booth, typically ramshackled punch and judy box, a travelers shrine to flies. The meat never touches the wooden table as the table is carpeted with a thick layer of old juices, bacteria. The machete used to cut the meat is only cleaned on the now sticky wet stone. I have bought meat from these outfits many times now. I almost always get an unhappy stomach the following day but only for a morning. This time is different. My muscles ache, energy gone, I feel I have been visited by an incubus. I remain in the truck whilst Mara and Anika shop. This allows my bowels to continue to drain. I collect the foul liquid in an empty bean tin then wrap it in plastic bags. Once the girls are ready we set off again. I have a fever coming on. It takes a great effort to drive the truck, I imagine going off the road, crashing, peace. I can not drive far so we stop on a dirt track heading north, one kilometer out of town, between the N1 and old railway lines. The rest of the day is spent running out of the truck to spill more liquid. Its strange, the track seems quiet enough but every time I need to go outside there is some traffic passing, cars, motorbikes, or worse the slow trot of horse drawn carts. I stand there, hoping from foot to foot, arms folded, a warm trickle running down my leg. By evening I have vomiting and fever.

The next day the fever has past. Despite the diarrhea I must examine the truck. The gear linkage has been fouling the cab floor. It was audible whilst driving through Louga. It can only be caused one of three things: the gear linkage collapsing, the cab slipping, the engine slipping. It turns out to be the engine. On both sides the engine mount bolts have shaken loose. Worse is the passenger side mount which was holding the engine by the fourth and last remaining bolt, bend into a crescent shape from the stress. Should that last bolt go then the engine would drop causing the radiator fan to lacerate the cooling pipes and radiator.

I spend one more night and day building strength. The number of little mole hills around our truck are increasing as is the flies. The ground here is covered with little thorny balls that now cover my clothes from both working under the truck and the runs crouched on the ground. Miki’s coat is bristling with thorns. She looks forlorn. The Zebra bar is only 60km away, driving slow we should make it. A playground for Anika, kids, the river for Miki, European toilets and showers, a vehicle workshop, its what we need.

I have begun work on the truck between runs to the toilet. It is a straightforward repair job for which I have all the tools and bolts.

And so here we are again. At the Zebra bar. Anika fell ill with fever and diarrhea on arrival but recovered the next day. Now its time to wait, rest, prepare for Mauritania. If we miss the Friday deadline then its back to Dakar for new visas.

The mount can be seen to be coming away from the engine and chassis.

The mount can be seen to be coming away from the engine and chassis.

Where is the perfect beach?

We are in search of the perfect beach. An endless expanse of white sand and crisp cold sea. Sets of waves breaking with precision clockwork. There should be nobody on the beach. We do not want to share it. Or if we have to, it should be with people who equally yearn for such a beach thus respecting the privacy of our intimate embrace of this panorama. There should definitely be no fishermen, pirogues, fish guts and flies, hoards of children, sellers of tat, piles of rubbish, some of it smoldering, wild dogs or raw sewage from the nearby village.

Are we asking too much? Perhaps we have been in Africa too long. The novelty of hanging off of smashed clock faces trying to read a time piece that stopped working long ago, this has worn off. Nobody else seems to notice that the time is incorrect. How can I explain this with broken French? At first shadows became children, sweet innocents in need of reassurance that life has not forgotton them. Now the same children become monstrous shadows that stretch out with claws to take what little we have. Ghouls weilding cut out machettes. Our shallow grave is round the next corner. Fortunatley we are still alive. We shall pass on and leave this broken landscape for others to clean up.

Our first attempt to find a beach, Mboro-Sur-Mer was swiftly aborted when a pack of panting men began hurling sand balls at Miki. Cackling laughter erupted as I interceded on behalf of a confused dog that could not speak the same language of violence. I wonder why they must torment her when there are half a dozen lazy, local beach dogs that do not get the same beating, whose presence goes wholey unnoticed. Albeit these dogs are knarly, scarred, broken spirits that tip toe past, some on crutches, ears ripped apart. One has a snapped tail, broken standard leading a broken army, dragging themselves through the sand. Will these men not be satisfied until they have torn down Miki’s own good looks, her youthful step? What is it about beauty that they despise so? There is nothing beautiful here that has not been profaned, apart from the beach, and even this is weighed down by the effluence of society, the unholy outpouring of waste like a zoo in war time. The cages are left open. Or bombed open. The janitor has fled. The sea purges the beach each morning but this does not reverse the degradation. The villagers despise the sea. They will not enter it. My protestation goes unheard, the savages move on, amused yet satisfied. One neanderthal carrying a wooden club swings it in the air and brings it crashing into the sand. He then points at Miki, grinning behind a black mask. The atmosphere has been poisoned for me. We can not stay here.

Even so, we carry on down the beach, past hooting children that run up to us then throw their hands in the air and run away screaming. Further on there is four coach loads of Belgium college students. Amongst the students the mood is different. African boys pair up with whichever Belgium girl is interested. Some students play football, others rugby. There is some drumming to which Belgium girls try their hardest to emulate African girls. Some daring boys are in the water, the breaks are terrifying, waves sweep up the beach, thirty meters, the teacher blows his whistle to keep the boys from going beyond the first line of breaks. Had he been a teacher in Britain he would have lost his job for the danger they were in. Some African boys dare each other to join the others in the sea. The beach was once a tourist destination. Abandoned guest houses line the beach. Some have collapsed roofs, others have been struck down by the sea.

We would like to find a track that runs parallel to the sea, past the village, to camp for the night. The tarmac road is a tongue that rolls out from Mboro to the beach village, three kilometers, with no openings for our truck to pass over into the bush. It ends on the beach, surrounded by a dense fishing village from which there is no escape but to turn around and return back from where we came. The stink of rotting fish guts mixed with donkey and human waste has become too familiar to us. Returning to the truck some kids are trying to break inside. They pull themselves up the spare tires framework, try the door, point at the open window. We gladly climb back into our sanctuary, turn east and head back towards Mboro. It is late so our only option is to pull off the road onto a sandy no mans land and camp the night.

Broken sliver of road leads to the beach

Broken sliver of road leads to the beach

The next morning we continue on. We still have high hopes that we shall find the perfect beach. First stop is Mboro, a fantastic large village with a bustling market. Miki remains outside the truck whilst we go shopping, proof that not everyone in Africa climbs a tree at the sight of her. People in Mboro are lovely, despite poor French I manage to laugh with the sandwich lady and her husband whilst they prepare me a typical roadside baguette filled with beef, haricot, onion, carrot, fries, boiled egg and salad (700CFA). Its a meal to itself! Fully stocked on sweets and meat, we continue on.

Still looking for the beach we pass another dairy farm and pick up another two liters of raw milk (500CFA a liter). The milk is turning, they do not have refrigeration here. But its good enough for pancakes in the morning. The truck is surrounded by the entire village. First the kids, then the adults. Only the elders stay away.

Another thirty kilometers and we reach Fas Boye. This is our worst experience of a village to date. The drive into the village is much like the last village we visited. A road that ends infront of a pile of fish guts mixed with rubbish. A village of flies. Not wanting a repeat of the last village, Mboro-sue-Mer we reverse out. The main road continues on towards our primary destination Lompoul. This was recommended to us by our good French friends that we met in Morocco (Fleur being Anika’s playmate). Our map, Reise, proves to be unreliable. The string of villages along this road are all several kilometers from the sea but on the map they front the sea. The road we need to follow ends at some sort of industrial complex. This could be a mine, or open cast pit. It could be sand they extract. It is hard to tell. But the scale is enormous. In any case the guards assign us a guide who knows a piste that goes round the site to reach Lompoul. The piste is no good. We can not even surmount the first dune. This whole area is dunes. There is no way forwards. One option would be to let out the air in the tires then we should be able to get through. I would do this but something tells me that our guide is not really a guide, more a guy that wants to go to Lompoul and thus I can not rely on him to steer us through this dune sea. The thought of getting stranded in a dip is too terrifying. The overhead sun, a panting Miki, Mara and Anika baked in the back, I can not imagine spending the next week trying to figure out how to get pulled out.

The guide is not defeated as quickly as I am. Lompoul is only thirty kilometers in a straight line from our position. To use the roads would be 135km! I allow him to persuade me to return back to that village that we made an aborted entry into, Fas Boye. This time, with a local guide, we may find a way. The plan is to get onto the beach at low tide and race it north to Lompoul. Our first difficulty is finding a route onto the beach. The road ends at the predicted mountain of fish guts, pirogues, a village dense with houses and people. There is no way down, We dare to take a little sand road through the village but can go only so far before it becomes too narrow. My thoughts are already on the tarmac road to Lompoul, which if we hurry for, would mean we arrive by dusk at the beach (two and a half hours drive). The heat is unbearable so we all get out to walk the beach. Miki needs a stretch. I need to inspect the sand with the guide before making my decision.

Our walk down to the beach turns into a procession which rapidly morphs into a mob. Hundreds of children join us. Some grab at Anika, I see her holding Mara’s arm tightly with both hands. The kids are mainly interested in Miki. They chase her, bate her. Sand balls begin to fly. Then rocks and slippers. I order us to retreat to the truck. For a few minutes Miki is cut off from us by the crowds, which are now attracting adults too. I am not seeing many friendly faces there. They bark at her. Their barks are more like howls, a chorus of monkeys come down from the trees, emptying out of the forest, clambering over boats, onto the roofs of buildings. They feed off their collective hysteria getting more excited. It feels as though something could go very wrong.

We are swamped on all sides

We are swamped on all sides

Finally we are all in the truck. The engine is on and we reverse towards freedom. The passage in front and behind is a sea of people. Are there that many living in this village? Fas Boye is an anthill that some how we have kicked open. The little black ants, each carrying a sting, are swarming out of the hive and shall soon carry us of. Someone smashes a fist into the passenger door. Objects are hurled at the truck. The guide is trying to placate the crowd outside but he is gobbled up by the collective appetite of a village starved of their animal past. Too many years of being the postcard smile, now is the time to fill ones stomach with fresh killed meat. We snag a low cable as we pull back. Like a black mamba its severed end swings down onto our bonnet. Is it electric, will it spark us? I have to climb onto the roof to detach its snaking form that is wrapped round the bike pedal protruding upwards. Climbing back into the safety of the cab children’s hands make an effort to prevent me from closing the door. A man, furious, demands I pay for the damages. To admit fault is to begin a process that will be the end of us. I ignore him and slam the door shut. I feel as if a rumor goes round that we owe the village money. More is the reason to prevent our exit. The crowd is whipped up in a fury. Now the guide, sitting beside me, seems to be loosing his cool. ‘Hurry’ he shouts, ‘Go, Go!’ I do not need to be asked a third time, The exit is meters away. There is nothing the villagers can do to hold back the Zil, we force our way free. For a moment I wonder what it is like to be an American infantry-man in Iraq, hounded out of a village that hates everything about you, to have the power to call in an air strike and wipe them all away, all men women and children, like one wipes the bloody mess of a mosquito off of ones thigh. What satisfaction. What a dream.

The guide is no longer worried. His cool rapidly returns. ‘Do not worry’ he assures me, ‘They are Wolof, all Wolof are like that, they are a crazy people, Imbeciles’. He tells me that the people of Lompoul are not Wolof, his tribe, a good tribe.