France and rentals

Moving to France 1.

We need a base six months to one year in order to get to know the area. We have questions unanswered, where would we like to live? Which villages have alternative communities? Which are proto-fascist (some could be)? Where does the sun shine the most? Which schools are good? Which areas get heavy snow in the winter? All these questions can be answered over time.

We found there are several ways to find a home to rent. Firstly there are the cafe bars. We have our favourite cafe bar. It is in Quillan, on the square, and it is called the Fleur. As well as having wifi gratis, it serves up a mean beef tartare with raw egg and is run by a most hospitable couple. They did not know of any rentals but did pass me the address of an immobilien that deals in rentals. These are not the short let holiday rentals but decent local rentals at decent local rates. I did email a few standard sales agencies but they strictly deal in sales not rentals and were not very helpful. We also took up the search in the Esperaza market, asking the Dutch chap, Dolphin, with whom we shared a table with. He did not know of any rentals but had a few sales in mind for us. Anyway, we exchanged numbers. There is also the internet. has rentals – but we never looked at it. The advantage of it is that one bypasses the agency which charges high fees – much higher than in the UK. There are also the tourist offices of larger towns such as Quillan or Limoux. They keep lists of long term rentals again bypassing agencies. Finally there are the Mairies. Work out your favourite village, visit the Mairie (Mayor) on the day that he is working, ask him. We tried this and were given a contact in our favorite village, Bezu, who had a possible rental. The Mairie did not speak English but he gave us his time and attention, we managed a form of communication.

So we took up the advise of the Fleur cafe and popped into Esperaza. They had two ideal sounding properties in St. Julia de Bec, a lovely village that we had our eye on. It is on the road to Bezu. Coincidentally Mara had just met an English lady with a young boy in the Carrefour supermarket who lives in St. Julia. One property was unfurnished, four bedrooms, 450euros a month. The other furnished, three bedrooms, 440euros a month. I arranged for us to visit both properties.

It appears that ‘unfurnished’ in France means that the pikey’s have been in and stripped it bare. Thankfully the water pipes are still there! But little else. It would need re-plastering, painting, some wiring. More annoying is that there were only two ideal bedrooms. The third is accessed through the second. The fourth has no windows. Lots of dead space. Very dark.

I began to feel a sinking feeling, hoping the furnished one is better. It was! Three decent bedrooms, an open plan kitchen sitting room, utilities space, basic bathroom, store room to the side (where the pigs were kept). The house was not overly furnished, beds, tables, washing machine, fridge, cooker and wood burner/fireplace. We agreed to take it.

In France ‘Unfurnished’ means a three year contract. Tenants must give three months notice. The Landlord can not evict unless it is their intention to put the house in the market. One person on an ‘unfurnished’ contract said there was not even light fixtures when they moved in! However, they were able to deduct some of the work done to the property against rent. The landlord can not place conditions on rental e.g. no pets, non-smokers only.

‘Furnished’ is a standard rental agreement. One year contract. Tenants must give one months notice.

Signing the contract is a breeze compared to London (bank statements, guarantors, references from past landlords, character references, one months deposit, one months rent in advance + the first months rent, agency fees – booom!). The agency needs either a print out of my bank balance (not three month statements) or employment contract, and a copy of my passport. Its a walk in walk out with the keys operation. Agency fees are high, worked out as a percentage of the rent. 440 euros comes to 260 euros of agency fees. There is a lot of paperwork to be read through and signed off as read. The contract on a sheet of A2 paper looking more like a table cloth for its size. The efficiency report (a break down of energy consumption, electric, gas and wood for the fire), a hazards report (forest fire risk), EDF electricity rates breakdown (hot water, heating), two inventories, and lots more stuff on rubbish collection, water usage etc.

I was impressed with the smoothness of getting a place to rent. Now its time to settle in, get a bank account, EDF account, internet, a car, car insurance, start French language classes, get registered as
living here (only possible through one months full time work) which entitles us to health insurance and start looking for a permanent home.

5 thoughts on “France and rentals

  1. Hi, today I found your pages by coincidence, have read a few pages with delight, and wonder about your progress on moving to France. I did this step a many years ago without travelling the world before like you did. We chose the South-East of France. I’d be interested in exchanging experiences.

    • Hi! We have not been very good at updating the blog of late. Hope this will change. Would be great to swap stories. We are still here in France, still enjoying ourselves. But winter getting closer and our wood supply is pitiful!

  2. Hi! I realise this is an old blog post but I wonder if you can help? We are in much the same position as you were when you wrote this post (looking for a 6-month let around Esperaza) so I wondered if you have any contact details for agents/rental property owners that maybe we could contact ourselves? Are you still settled in France?

Leave a Reply

Your email address will not be published. Required fields are marked *